holley sniper efi iac problemsholley sniper efi iac problems

I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. Cl. Reply Quote. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. Good luck! The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. All times are GMT-6. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. Definitely would have went with you guys. I'd really appreciate some help. This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. Um, no. Jump on board now! Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? It's not necessary to drive it that way. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. I will turn it up some. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. It won't take much! Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. Hello Chris. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. I.e. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. It does this with the engine off. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Ok, so I'm stumped! The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. That However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. So something is triggering the ECU to be in Open Loop. We do that but most places don't. I had this same exact issue. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. I appreciate everything you are saying. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. Thank you for any advice. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? Thanks again. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. Thanks for the great question! So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. The distributor was loose. Tried that and it didn't work? No problems with either cold or hot starts. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. This is very disappointing as people love to hear the motor while the hood is open.Thanks Jon. TPS 0. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. Hi I wish I had bought from you but I didn't find this site until now. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. If your TPS is at zero and your IAC is at some random number above 8% (but not exactly 30%) then for some reason your engine has not met the conditions to ramp down to target idle. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an Inj. holley efi. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. See these. The problem was RF interferance . Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. The fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper is fairly simple and not prone to failure, as far as I know. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. That will at least tell you something. have the system learn the higher speeds? What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. 2. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. The first place my eyes go when there is any issue with the idle is to the TPS value. Hello Chris. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. It is simply for the benefit of the user. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. i would have been happy to answer there. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. Give us a hand! Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. If they are closed, check the primaries. The fix? Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Don't try to correct for the fuel. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. At idle my IAC is 3-4, AFR around 13-14, TPS is 0, timing 15-17. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.).

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